
SURF IN CÁDIZ, THE BEST SPOTS, THE BEST WAVES
The N-340, which runs along the coast of Cadiz, is one of the most beautiful routes on the peninsular coast: fishing villages, thick pine forests that reach the sea, lighthouses full of history, dunes that seem taken from Lawrence of Arabia (the movie of course) and, above all, a catalog of beaches where you can practice our favorite sport: surfing! Below, we reveal the best beaches in Cadiz for surfing.
¡Cádiz! Torricheli writes in an article about Yerbabuena and its wild beach: “Cadiz is the watercolor of sunsets that should be declared World Heritage; a route to get lost in coves and forests; a sample of endless beaches; a mountain range dotted with white villages; a Sunday of carnival; the trade of America and the liberalism of the 1810 Courts; the cradle of flamenco and sherry wine; La Caleta and the memory of the Malecón of Havana without traveling to Cuba; Roman ruins overlooking Tangier; the mouth of the Guadalquivir in Sanlúcar; the Doñana Natural Park…”
Where to surf in Cadiz
And surf. C ádiz is surfing. It’s true that the waves here are less powerful than in northern Spain. But there are breaking waves that, under ideal conditions, can offer you memorable sessions. And without further ado, here is our selection of beaches and waves:
BALNEARIO BEACH, TARIFA
Tarifa is the end point of the continent, the extreme that separates worlds, the precise geographical accident that allows the Mediterranean to rightfully bear the name of sea. On its shores, the waves stir up and the whole of Africa is present in that terrible wind that cleans the beaches and drives people crazy.
The Balneario beach is located about 200 meters from the port of Tarifa, right next to Isla de las Palomas, which separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Mediterranean Sea. It is the most well-known surf spot in Tarifa , perfect for advanced and intermediate surfers. You need a powerful swell.
Balneario Beach
BOLONIA BEACH, TARIFA
It is located just 15 kilometers from Tarifa, and can be easily reached through a well-signposted deviation from the national road heading to Cadiz. Bolonia Beach is one of the most beautiful in Spain. But if the east wind blows and the suitable swell comes in, you may even forget about the turquoise color of its waters and the impressive Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia.
Bolonia Beach – Photography: Mario Castillo
EL PALMAR, VEJER DE LA FRONTERA
Who doesn’t know or hasn’t heard of El Palmar beach ? True, it is no longer the hippie paradise of thirty years ago. But El Palmar remains a spectacular wild beach over five kilometers long. Of course, when we talk about surfing… Rights, lefts, good wrails, and unforgettable tubes. Can you ask for more?
El Palmar – Photography: Lucas Diaz
Vast and wild, El Palmar is one of the most fun beaches in Andalusia to surf. Its right, hollow waves are known beyond our borders. And that shows in the water and also in the number of schools right on the beach.
El Palmar
TRAFLGAR LIGHTHOUSE, IN CAÑOS DE MECA
The “live and let live” spirit of Caños de Meca has spread to this immense wild beach open to the Atlantic. It is a perfect break for practicing longboard.
Trafalgar Lighthouse
YERBABUENA, IN BARBATE
Yerbabuena It is a magical place to surf. There is no one who has set foot on this pristine beach, right in the heart of the La Breña y Marismas de Barbate Natural Park, and has not succumbed to the charm of riding its right-hand wave. It is a vertical and long wave that breaks over a stone slab and invites you to dream both because of its route and the surrounding environment, with cliffs, pine forests, and dunes as a backdrop. But Yerbabuena cannot be explained. You have to experience it. You have to arrive early one morning, with the first light of dawn, and dive into the water. The rest is history.
Yerbabuena Beach
BATELES BEACH, CONIL
It is an exceptional break because of its versatility. Its length and gradual depth allow both beginners and top-level surfers to find their stretch.
Bateles Beach
ROCHE, CONIL
Roche beach is located between Torre del Puerco and Cabo Roche Lighthouse. Fast waves, with good swell, powerful and tubular. And of course, a postcard-worthy landscape.
Roche
LA FONTANILLA, CONIL
It is a good spot for surfing in the autumn and winter months. Here you can enjoy good lefts and rights, without the competition you find in El Palmar or Yerbabuena.
La Fontilla Beach – Photography: Gerd Rehm
CORTADURA AND SANTA MARÍA BEACHES, IN CÁDIZ
Yes, surfing is also done in the Silver Cup. Cortadura Beach offers good waves in winter. On the other hand, Santa María del Mar Beach is perfect for beginners.
Cortadura Beach – Photography: Rosa Vidal
WHEN TO GO TO CÁDIZ FOR SURFING
Undoubtedly, from October to April. Fewer tourists, more waves. Anyway, we recommend you make sure the forecast is good. We recommend you check the wave forecast in surf forecast Cadiz and surf forecast El Palmar Cadiz and even check the windguru. A simple search for winduguru Cortadura or La Barrosa, can save you from a long walk.
WHAT BOARD DO I TAKE FOR THE SURF BEACHES OF CÁDIZ
✓ CI Mid
Possibly the most demanded surfboard of the moment. The CI Mid from Channel Islands is an all-terrain board that flies over the flattest and smallest waves. One of the best options for surfing the beaches of Conil and the Yerbabuena wave.
Al Merrick CI MID available at Singlequiver.com
✓ Bradley Gladiator
The Gladiator model from Bradley Surfboards is the ultimate performance board for small waves. This board has a thinner nose and tail to give it life. Its straight shape to the tail provides maximum power in small waves. It also has a wider tail for acceleration.
Bradley Gladiator
✓ AL MERRICK FISHBEARD
If you like Twinfins, the Al Merrick Fish Beard surfboard from Channel Islands is your board. This Channel Islands twin fin will give you that extra speed and grip to surf tubular days.
Al Merrick Fish Beard
✓ Sharpeye Modern 2.5
The Sharp Eye Modern 2.5 is wide and flat enough to give you a good paddle in small waves and its rounded bottom allows you to surf waves with a lot of face despite the central width of the board.
Sharp Eye 2.5 our choice for this trip
✓ Softech Filipe Toledo Wildfire
If you like the soft-top vibe, the new Filipe Toledo from Softech is the ideal surfboard for surfing in El Palmar. Don’t miss the comments and opinions about this board on our Blog.
Opinion Softech Filipe Toledo
Wildfire Yellow / Pink
✓ Mark Richards California Twin Fin
And if you like twinfins , we recommend the new Lost California Twinfin in collaboration with Mark Richards. The iconic Australian surfer , one of the living legends of our surf, has a new board in collaboration with Lost Surfboards. It is a modern Twin Fin + Trailer «Fish» with some unique touches to create a modern MR. A fast surfboard with great performance in small waves.
California Twin Fin Mark Richards by Lost
✓ PukasTasty Treat
And when things get serious. Our recommendation Pukas Tasty Treat . You can read our opinion about the Tasty Treat on our blog. The fastest surfboard according to Mick Fanning.
Pukas Tasty Treat from 60 euros/month
WHAT WETSUIT DO WE RECOMMEND FOR SURFING IN CADIZ?
We have been on a surf trip to Cadiz in January and we assure you that the water is cold but not as much as in the Cantabric. The water average temperature in Cadiz in October is around 21°C So if you travel to Cadiz in these dates, October-February, we recommend a 4/3mm wetsuit. Although the outside temperature can reach 23 degrees, the water starts to get cold and you need to switch from 3/2mm to 4/3.
We wear the Premium Supercomp 5/4mm with hood and Solite 3mm booties. We were very hot. A 4/3mm without hood and booties would have been more than enough.
Premium Wetsuits with hood photo @singlequiver.com
These are our wetsuit recommendations for surfing in Cadiz from October to February:
✓ Hurley Advantage Plus 4/3mm
The advantage plus is a super comfortable and warm wetsuit. It incorporates a chest zip that can be opened from both ends. With a smooth and tight design, it is easy to put on and take off. In addition, its innovative closure system allows you to secure the chest opening with a single hand. Available in our Wetsuit Outlet .
HURLEY ADVANTAGE PLUS 4/3MM BLUE
✓ Hurley Advantage Plus Women
For the girls, our recommendation for price, warmth, elasticity and comfort is the Hurley Advantage Plus 4/3mm.
Hurley Advantage plus 4/3mm women 42% discount
✓ Premium Supercomp 4/3.5mm
The model Supercomp 4/3.5 by Premium Wetsuits is a cheap high-end surf wetsuit. A good wetsuit for those who feel the cold. Comfortable, warm, and with 100% sealed seams. More comfortable than Hurley, warmer than Premium.
PREMIUM WETSUITS SUPERCOMP 4/3.5 WOMEN
PADDLE SURF IN CADIZ AND WHAT TO DO IF THERE ARE NO WAVES
Tourism, gastronomy, museums and a paddle surf ride on the best beaches of Cadiz are some of the proposals you will find below in our Surf Guide Cadiz
WHAT TO SEE IN CADIZ: MUST-VISIT PLACES IN CADIZ
We have already said it. Cadiz is a place that invites you to dream. Cadiz is surf, of course. But also many other things. It is the south of the South, a corner where time lengthens, becoming more human. Here we advise you on two routes. The first one along the coast, from Tarifa to Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The second one through the Sierra.
TARIFA
Phoenician and then Roman, Muslim and Christian, Tarifa unfolds in small squares, palm trees, monkey puzzle trees, and white streets. Its ancient castle is a national monument and a large part of its walls and some of its gates are relatively well preserved. Its beaches and sandy areas are an ode to Epicurus .
Tarifa
BAELO CLAUDIA RUINS
It is an evocative, beautiful place. Located almost at the very edge of the sea, the ancient Roman city preserves the remains of the forum, the basilica, the market, and the theater. Shadows of the commercial importance and economic power that this city reached in the mid-1st century.
Yes, Bolonia beach is a unique place in Europe. Having a mojito and watching the sunset at La Cabaña after visiting the Roman ruins or after a good surfing session are big events.
And as if that weren’t enough, through the forest overlooking Bolonia beach passes one of the most beautiful routes in the Natural Park of the Strait: a path for hiking enthusiasts that reaches the Cañuelo beach and the scenic Camarinal lighthouse.
Archaeological site Baelo Claudia – Nuria Rosa Martínez
VEJER DE LA FRONTERA
It is one of the most impressive towns in Cádiz, a prodigy of architectural delicacy and urban harmony: a perfect blend of Greece and Morocco.
Located on top of a hill overlooking the region of La Janda, the 16 kilometers that separate the town from El Palmar beach have saved Vejer from the clutches of the tourist boom. And that shows.
Narrow and steep streets, lime arches and old Mudéjar churches, neoclassical facades and houses with deep and fresh patios, taken care of to the last detail. Yes, life in Vejer flows tranquilly. On the facades of its whitewashed houses, the white seems blue and the sun reflects like nowhere else in the world. As Caballero Bonald writes, the streets of Vejer, attached to the irregularities of the hill and stretched towards the summit where the church of El Salvador is located, define the saturation of all whiteness.
Vejer de la Frontera
Very close to Vejer de la Frontera are The Lighthouse and Cape Trafalgar . A place for history. There we can still imagine the roar of the historic battle in which Admiral Nelson lost his life, fought a few miles off the coast. From the Lighthouse, one can enjoy one of the best panoramic views of this part of the coast.
CÁDIZ, THE SILVER CUP
And we arrive in Cádiz. From the sea, it looks like a city with a Byzantine profile, a city full of domes and towers, with a sky overcrowded with seagulls. It is not Florence, but in it, with as much beauty as it contains, one could suffer something similar to Stendhal’s syndrome. Atlantic Gate á ntico (authentic) , border of the known world, base of the no further than the Pillars of Hercules, Cádiz was also a bridge to America, a crossroads of routes and trades. And all that, of course, shows.
To the sunsets of La Caleta we must add the superb panoramic view that is contemplated from the Tavira Tower . After these two glorious visions, it is best to lose oneself without a set course and enter wherever one can. In the Plaza de Abastos , with a truly sumptuous fish market; in one of the taverns that abound in Pópulo; in the former Capuchins convent to see Murillo’s paintings; in one of the eighteenth-century mansions of the San Carlos neighborhood …
Tavira Tower
At once secluded and outgoing, anchored at the point where the routes of three continents cross, Cádiz, as recommended by Caballero Bonald, is a city that must be exhausted with emotional patience. Street by street, the old city founded by the Phoenicians reveals its history and its colonial prominence: the walls of Puerta Tierra; the cathedral; the countless watchtowers; the Monument to the Cortes of 1812; the Genoa Park and the Alameda Apodaca; the smell of overseas that still seems to cling to the corners of Santa María and Pópulo; the cannons that did not let Napoleon’s troops pass…
Yes, one could write about Cádiz for hours and hours.
Alameda Apodaca
ROUTE OF THE PORTS
Puerto de Santa María is the city of the poet Rafael Alberti and one of the most famous corners of Cádiz for its cuisine and nightlife. Beyond, Puerto Real and San Fernando complete the route of the ports.
San Marcos Castle Cádiz
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
The mouth of the Guadalquivir River, as it passes through Sanlúcar de Barrameda, is a memorable sight. Impossible not to remember the verses of Antonio Machado:
Oh Guadalquivir!
I saw you born in Cazorla;
today, in Sanlúcar you die.
A bubbling of clear water
beneath a green pine,
it was you, how beautiful you sounded!
Like me, near the sea,
river of brackish mud,
do you dream of your source?
No, one cannot leave the province of Cádiz without visiting Sanlúcar. Without seeing how the Guadalquivir River gives its last breath. Without contemplating its fusion with the sea of Sanlúcar. An eternal moment, especially at dawn.
Sunset in Sanlúcar – Photography: Valentín Nieto
Pasear por Sanlúcar, desde From Bajo Guía to Barrio Alto , it is a meticulous pleasure. There are elegant courtyards, stately mansions, magnificent churches, delightful streets and wineries.
Some memorable moments remain in history. It should be remembered that Columbus set sail from here on his third voyage and Magellan and Elcano set off to cross mythical seas. And it should also be remembered that in the 19th century, Sanlúcar had the support and preference of the Duke of Montpensier, a legendary, dark and fascinating French prince who adopted our land as his own. In fact, between the old palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and that of the Orleans Infants a good part of the history of Spain in the last seven or eight centuries is encapsulated.
Garden of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and Orleans Infants Palace – Pablo Martín
In addition to these two palaces, undoubtedly the most characteristic buildings in the city, there are other places worth visiting:
Santiago Castle: built between 1477 and 1478. To appreciate Sanlúcar, Doñana and the mouth of the Guadalquivir from above, you can visit the keep tower. Legend has it that Queen Isabella the Catholic saw the sea for the first time from there.
Santiago Castle
Church of Our Lady of the O. It is located in Conde de Niebla square, and is the oldest temple in Sanlúcar. Its main attraction is the beautiful Mudéjar-style coffered ceiling.
Church of Santo Domingo . Inside we find the pantheon of the ducal house of Medina Sidonia.
Just a step away from Bajo Guía beach, the street of the same name houses a large part of Sanlúcar’s gastronomic offer. Of course, one cannot leave here without tasting their famous prawns.
Prawns from Sanlúcar de Casa Bigote – Photograph: C.Cruz
ROUTE THROUGH THE SIERRA DE CÁDIZ
As I write on the website viajarenautocravanas.pro , Cádiz is also a sierra. A rugged and steep sierra, bathed by mighty rivers and tributaries that bestow the fruits of generations of patience and dedication upon its orchards. A sierra particularly fortunate in terms of the preservation of its popular architecture, characterized by the whiteness of its appearance, visible from several kilometers away. If all the towns in Andalusia are white, here they are even more so, as millennia-old lime has turned the walls of the houses into a mass of perpetual snow.
Sierra de Cádiz
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA
Former battlefield for Muslims and Christians, Arcos de la Frontera – in the words of Azorín, the most beautiful town in Andalusia –, is only 30 kilometers from Jerez de la Frontera. And indeed, it is an incessant bubbling of white houses, a wonderful forge of beauty stretching along the entire length of a rocky promontory that climbs up to the Arab castle and the church of Santa María and descends to the fields of the valley.
Arcos de la Frontera
Curved and sloping streets. Squares and small squares. Houses that lean against each other. Churches and convents, with excellent paintings and altarpieces. Stately mansions with their heraldic porches and shady patios. And overseeing everything, a castle of Arab origin, rebuilt in the 15th century.
You have to look out from the viewpoint in the Town Hall square . There you will find a panorama that borders on the marvelous. There also stands the church of Santa María , in Gothic style. A visit inside is a must, as the choir and the main altarpiece deserve attention. And afterward, you have to walk and walk until you are exhausted. And do not return to the road without passing by the church of San Pedro , with a stout structure and excellent altarpiece and paintings.
GRAZALEMA
Grazalema is another prodigy of architectural delicacy and urban harmony. Famous for being the rainiest place in Spain and because a rare conifer (the Spanish fir) grows in its surroundings, the village clusters in a walled ravine surrounded by an immense rocky enclosure. A kind of Colosseum with white houses in the arena instead of gladiators.
Grazalema
From Grazalema starts a small and evocative Roman road. But undoubtedly, the most memorable thing about our visit to this charming town of white houses was the landscape, made of shining greens and oozing ochres. As you can imagine, the possibilities for hiking from Grazalema, which lends its name to the Natural Park where it is stranded, are almost endless.
Viewpoint of Grazalema – Photography M. Matias López
ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA
From Grazalema starts a road that leads to Zahara de la Sierra, another charming town of white houses sheltered by a rocky castle. The castle was a famous Muslim fortress, which did not fall into the hands of the Christians until shortly before the surrender of Granada. But Olvera marvels, above all, for its well-kept popular architecture and for the beautiful forests in its surroundings.
Zahara de la Sierra – Photography: Pepe León
OLVERA
Olvera is 20 kilometers away. In the Middle Ages, this town owed its fame to being a refuge for murderers, to whom the crime of blood was forgiven if they spent a year fighting against the frontier Moors. Today, the olive tree has replaced the sword, and only the memory remains of the old border wars, evoked by the strong image of the castle.
Olvera – Photography: Frank Engel
Olvera clings to a cliff dominated by its two heritage landmarks: the castle and the church of Our Lady of the Incarnation. Monuments that must be climbed through its white, narrow, steep streets filled with flowers.
Aerial view of Olvera
SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS
Very close to Olvera, less than fifteen kilometers away, we find Setenil de las Bodegas. And here, everything that is said is not enough. Setenil is an amazing place, one of the most astonishing towns in all of the Spanish geography. Something like the labyrinth where Borges’ Minotaur awaited the arrival of Perseus. A magical town, beyond the laws of gravity and sanity.
Setenil de las Bodegas from the air – Photography: Marco Moura
The Guadalporcún river draws a deep meander around a rocky crag. At the top of this crag stand the remains of the Arab castle and a church that used a tower of the old fortress to seat its bell tower on it. The church resembles an eagle protecting its offspring: the houses, which spill out, very white, on a steep slope to the river gorge.
And there lies the fascinating singularity of Setenil. Many houses are excavated in the rock and cram with those that are not following a crazy planning. There are streets like tunnels. There are rooftops that connect with basements. And there are viewpoints where you can sit at dusk by the riverside promenade.
Houses excavated in the rock of Setenil de las Bodegas
The medieval origin of Setenil is evident as soon as you wander through its eccentric streets. You have to walk through them calmly. And of course, you have to climb up to the remains of the medieval fortress. The views from the Homage Tower are unforgettable.
And speaking of views, near Setenil is the village of El Gastor, known as the balcony of the White Towns. And very close by, another surprise: the dolmen called the Giant’s Burial.
The Giant’s Burial
RONDA
And since it is close by, we jump to the province of Malaga and arrive in Ronda, Roman and Arab, Renaissance and Baroque, Neoclassical and Romantic. A unique place, hanging, without vertigo, on a rocky plateau cut by a deep gorge (the Tajo) in whose hollow the Guadiaro shimmers. A city for Merimée, for Gustavo Doré, that naturally grows from a summit, flying over its own landscape.
Ronda is the pearl of the mountain range that bears its own name; it is the city of Goyaesque bullfighters, of the smugglers and bandits of the 19th century; it is la ciudad soñada del poeta Rilke y del cineasta Orson Welles . The first one wrote: «I have searched everywhere for the dreamed city and finally found it in Ronda.» The second one sleeps the eternal sleep on the estate of the bullfighter Antonio Ordóñez, where his ashes were deposited.
Ronda Bridge – Photography: Salvador Soiza
The first thing to do in Ronda is to approach the Tajo. Caballero Bonald says that leaning out over this two hundred meter deep gorge that saves the beautiful New Bridge (1793) is an unforgettable geological experience. It’s true.
On one side of the Tajo is the old Ronda. You have to approach the neoclassical bullring and then cross the New Bridge and wander through the Old Town. Every step, every turn of the head, is a discovery, a dose of beauty. Noble mansions, Moorish houses, baroque churches… Ronda is worth a day and more.
One last piece of advice. Wait for the sunset from the viewpoint of Paseo de Blas Infante. The landscape of Ronda, seen from that point, has something sacred about it. As the evening falls, as the poet Ángel González wrote, the expansive countryside stretches out and fades away to collide with the edge of the mountain range. «The shadow erases everything and only the distinct profiles of three successive mountain ranges remain on the farthest horizon, the first green, the second gray, the third smoke. And behind, only colorless light, the sky.
Views from the New Bridge
And if Ronda has not satisfied your cultural appetite, about 20 kilometers away and at almost a thousand meters above sea level, there are the Roman ruins of Acinipo, with the evocative remains of its theatre. Impossible not to remember the verses of Rodrigo Caro:
Houses, gardens, caesars died,
and even the stones that were written about them.
DINING ON THE COAST OF LIGHT
Here the kings of the table are the fruits of the sea, present in the most refined restaurants as well as in the most mundane taverns. Essential, of course, is the fried fish. Among the fishes, you must try the marinated dogfish, the acedías, the sole, the tuna or the squid. Among the seafood, the prawn (especially in Sanlúcar), the langoustine, the clams, the bocas or the shrimp, boiled or in original little cakes.
Fried fish
DINING IN THE WHITE VILLAGES OF CÁDIZ
The White Villages offer the opportunity to taste the cuisine of the Sierra de Cádiz. Typical dishes such as rabbit stew, cabrero stir-fry, salmorejo, trout, oxtail… Also worthy of mention are the Payoyo cheeses from Grazalema.
Payoyo Cheese
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